Short answer
On an electric dryer it is usually a failed heating element, a blown thermal fuse, or one half of the 240-volt supply gone — the drum still turns on 120 volts, which is why it runs perfectly and dries nothing. On gas it is more often the igniter or a flame sensor.
The single most common cause
Restricted airflow. A blocked lint path makes the dryer overheat, which trips a thermal fuse or cycling thermostat, which cuts the heat while leaving the motor running. Replacing the fuse without clearing the blockage just means it blows again.
Check the lint screen, then the vent hose behind the machine, then the duct run to the outside wall. A crushed foil hose behind a dryer that has been pushed back too far is one of the most frequent things we find.
Electric versus gas
An electric dryer runs on two 120-volt legs. Lose one and the drum turns while the element stays cold. That can be a breaker, and it is worth checking both halves of a double breaker before anything else.
A gas dryer that turns but does not heat is usually an igniter that has failed or a flame sensor that is not confirming ignition. Gas work is not a DIY job — call us and say it is gas, and it goes to the front of the schedule.
Why this one matters more than most
A dryer with a blocked lint path is a fire risk, not just an inconvenience. If yours has started taking two or three cycles to dry a load, that is the warning, and it is worth acting on before the heat cuts out entirely.
Still not sure how this applies to your machine? Call and ask — we would rather answer a question over the phone than have you guess. We cover Rock Island, the Quad Cities and every community within 50 miles.
(309) 430-9594This comes up most on